TED’s The TEN were co-developed by Professors Becky Earley and Kay Politowicz, and the team at TED between 2006 – 2010. They are sustainable strategies which aim to help designers reduce the environmental impact of textile design, production, use and disposal. They are not a check-list, but rather they are a framework for creative thinking and action. As ideas emerge, The TEN can be used to develop layers of strategic innovation – a chance to redesign and improve, or simply to communicate concepts and products more clearly.
The TEN emerged from a practice-based and collaborative approach over many years; and are perhaps best used when supporting teams in the design thinking process behind the creation of new prototypes which test potential solutions for a more sustainable industry. Recent action research projects have begun to evolve The TEN from prompts for small to medium size design companies into scalable concepts for design teams to adopt in large corporations in the UK, USA (VF Corporation) and Sweden (at H&M). This development enables the TED research team to constantly evolve and adapt The TEN – tailoring them to suit speeds, needs, contexts and circumstances.
In order to enable this action research in a more effective and timely manner – as is the wont in industry – the TEN have been made into a series of short animated films, to help participants grasp the essential considerations for textile and fashion designers to embrace in their day-to-day practice. The TED team have been writing scripts over the last year, Ana Diaz from SokFok Studio was the animator, and the project was funded by CLTAD, TFRC and Chelsea research. See our The TEN page to watch the animations and read more about each strategy.
As digital textiles continue to push the boundaries of innovation within wide format print production, the need for information is in greater demand. To meet this interest FESPA delivered another of its successful Digital Textile Conferences in Milan on the 2nd October 2014. Melanie Bowles spoke at the conference following the recent completion of her second publication “Print, Make, Wear – Creative projects for digital textile design“, Laurence King 2015.
This one day conference provided an international line-up of digital textile printing experts, ready to share a wealth of knowledge, experience and insight into the latest innovative products, trends, case studies and trade secrets.
The conference offered an opportunity to gain exclusive insight into the future direction of DTP and gain practical tips on embedding innovation in your business, while networking and connecting with global leaders of the print industry.
Transfer Vs direct printing
Sportwear and apparel
Serving interior markets
Digital textile inks
Case studies from leading printers and end-users
Rebecca Earley and Jen Ballie have written on the Black Hack Chat workshop they lead at 10th EAD conference in Gothenburg, April 2013. Their reflection on the workshop has been included in In the Making: The ‘Power to the People’ Workshop Track at Crafting the Future, an article edited by Otto Von Busch and published in The Design Journal volume 17 issue 3, September 2014.
“Over the last decade several projects and exhibitions have explored how crafts can play a central role for empowerment through social development, innovation and entrepreneurship. In order to facilitate this, there is a need to explore how craft practices can act as tools for empowerment, both in research and practice. The ‘Power to the People’ track at the European Academy of Design conference in Gothenburg 2013 tried to answer on this challenge with a series craft- based seminars, each centred on a participant’s proposed craft or ‘Paper of Practice’. this formed a series of practice-based seminars that mixed hands-on activities and discussion, centred on and emerging from the very act of doing.”
- Busch, O. (2014) “In the Making: The ‘Power to the People’ Workshop Track at Crafting the Future”, The Design Journal, vol. 17:3, September, pp379-402.
Black Hack Chat – a collaborative workshop was designed for the 10th EAD conference in Gothenburg – combined two research projects: the Black Hack approach was fused with Old is the New Black, where Jen Ballie and Otto von Busch re-worked old clothes using black paint. The aim of the EAD workshop was to push the boundaries of textile design practice through co-design, to identify how it can be used as a tool for citizen engagement for both the individual creating for themselves, and the retailer who wishes to creatively engage with their products over a longer time frame. In the run up to the event Earley made Fractal Shirt (2013) using a domestic iron, and published a ‘Shirt Film’ for people who wanted to make at home during the workshop session.
The full article can be downloaded here.
The TEXTILE TOOLBOX exhibition launches online on 13th November. It is a showcase of ten propositional design concepts inspired by Mistra research into the sustainability of the fashion and textile industry.
The exhibition platform functions as a research and public engagement
tool formed around TED’s ‘The TEN’ – design strategies for innovative sustainability thinking and action. The exhibition proposes how these strategies can translate technical and scientific research breakthroughs into design concepts. The new products demonstrate the potential for progressing a sustainable fashion system with new materials, processes, applications and business models. The exhibits are a starting point for discussion – provocations, or ‘provotypes’ – showing us how design tools can create entirely new visions for the future of the industry. This unique online platform offers a global audience a glimpse of a sustainable future fashion industry. An industry that ultimately gives the consumer pleasure whilst also giving the planet and its inhabitants absolute consideration.
The final design pieces use a strategic ‘TEN’ approach to create beautiful fashions for style fans to savour, with aesthetics connecting and responding to the scientific research of the MISTRA Future Fashion consortium.
- Seamsdress, by Dr Kate Goldsworthy
- A.S.A.P (Paper Cloth), by Prof Kay Politowicz, Sandy MacLennan (East Central), Dr Kate Goldsworthy, David Telfer (COS) and Dr Hjalmar Granberg (Innventia)
- Shanghai Shirt,by Prof Becky Earley and Isabel Dodd
- Inner/Outer Jacket, by Clara Vuletich
- DeNAture, by Miriam Ribul in collaboration with Hanna de la Motte (SP)
- ReDressing Activism, by Prof Becky Earley, Emmeline Child and Bridget Harvey
- Smörgåsbord, by Melanie Bowles and Kathy Round
- Sweaver, by Josefin Tissingh
- Fast Refashion, by Prof Becky Earley
- A Jumper to Lend, A Jumper to Mend, by Bridget Harvey
The collaborations with scientists, academics and professionals, have lead to Tool Kits for action, instructions for making, resources for learning, and films to sit back and watch. International training tools and education models will be available from the site as a free download in the final report in June 2015.
We will also invite a global fashion design audience to submit their own sustainable future fashion projects to us, and selected works will be showcased in an open gallery on the site. We also invite reviewers to send us feedback on the exhibition and to contribute to our final project report. Get in touch for the opportunity to be part of this exciting process.
For more information:
Please contact Angela Hartley, TFRC Manager, email@example.com
To follow the project’s progress and send feedback use Twitter, @textiletoolbox, Facebook group, or the project website – www.textiletoolbox.com.
17:30 to 19:30
CCW Graduate School would like to invite prospective research degree applicants to an open evening to find out more about research degrees at Camberwell, Chelsea and Wimbledon Colleges of Art.
The evening will be an opportunity to meet staff and students involved with the research degree programme. You will hear a number of short presentations throughout the evening with an opportunity for you to network and ask questions.
Information about funding opportunities will also be available.
Chelsea College of Arts 16 John Islip Street London
UAL students and recent graduates are invited to share their sustainable fashion and textile films on UAL Film Vert platform. The platform’s aim is to promote students’ work, their course and graduate projects and to showcase inspiring short films and animations focused on sustainable design in fashion and textiles.
To find out more or to submit your film, please email Ania Stawarska, TFRC Administrator firstname.lastname@example.org
To watch films showcased at the Film Vert event during UAL Green Week, visit Your Guide to Film Vert and UAL Film Vert platform.
UAL Film Vert Vimeo, funded CLTAD, is co-curated by Textile Futures Research Centre and Centre for Sustainable Fashion.
Clara Vuletich, the TED PhD candidate with MISTRA Future Fashion took part in a PhD seminar on Sustainable Fashion at the Centre for Fashion Studies at Stockholm University in May. Twelve PhD students presented their research from a range of disciplines including social science, fashion theory, textile design and management studies. The Convenors were Hazel Clarke (Parsons, NY), Andrea Kollnitz (Stockholm Uni.), and Alessandra Vaccari (University IUAV,Venice). Projects included a case study of sustainable brand Patagonia using Stewart Brand’s framework of The Long Now; a study of ‘slow fashion’ in Canada; and an investigation of fashion design/creativity within the organisational context of a fashion brand. The convenors summarised the overall themes covered as:
- Importance of new methods in fashion design education to incorporate sustainability
- The notion of time in fashion and sustainability – slow, fast, long timeframes, short timeframes
- Sustainability and Modernism: an historical perspective on sustainable fashion is vital, ‘art as fashion’ and activism in fashion has it’s roots in modernism
- Place/Geography/National Identity: the stories behind fashion brands and heritage
- Consumption and users of fashion: most discourse has focused on production or design, but consumption is as important and under-explored
- Slow: is the concept helpful? Is it outdated? Do consumers of fashion or designers use this term
The convenors found it “invigorating” to see projects from theory and practice being brought together, and they emphasised that in fashion design education these two aspects should not exist in isolation. They also felt the fashion designer’s role needs to be more critically evaluated, as there is little understanding of how fashion designer’s ‘do’ design in the academic literature.
The Sustainable Angle has been busy this year, researching and sourcing new sustainable innovations, and developing their online sourcing tool with more sustainable fabrics and processes.
The Future Fabrics Virtual Expo is now updated and enhanced with extra features and content and to give a sneak preview ahead of the 4th Future Fabrics Expo, next taking place on 28th-30th September 2014, London.
Register here to see a diverse overview of sustainable fabrics, from organic cotton denim, knits and wovens, British wool, and sustainable silks, to linen and organic cotton blends, and low impact leather.
TED awarded four graduates of the MA Textile Design course at Chelsea College of Arts with the TED Selects price 2014. All students demonstrated high expertise with applying strategies for sustainable design to their final projects. This year’s graduates from the MA Textile Design course demonstrate a varied skill-set to promote sustainability through their work and we highly recommend to visit the show before it closes on Friday this week.
Sor Zheng‘s background in interior design has influenced her final print collection. Questioning the practice of a pattern designer in the fashion industry, she was inspired by an item titled ‘Wallpaper Sandwiches’ at the MODA Museum, showing overlaid wallpapers that told a story about a place. Aiming to achieve the same storytelling element and depth in her prints, she created a layered print collection with a zero waste and up-cycling approach. The garment shapes are derived from the fishing trade in her native region in China, and the beautiful outcomes add an emotional and durable quality to textiles that can be used for fashion and interiors.
Lija Tang‘s work titled ‘Animal Abuse’ reflects an activist approach for ethical production. Following reports on animal cruelty, she wanted to flag up the issue through her prints. With skilled craft she invested time to produce detailed drawings that she digitally printed on textiles. Hoping that the wearer would contribute to sharing the story about animals abuse, she created simple garment shapes as a canvas for her elaborate prints. Her drawings are also translated into embroidery through the collaboration with a hand-stitching bureau in China to create haptic representations.
Rhiannon Hunt is an environmental scientist as background. She won the Neal’s Yard Remedies MA Textile Design Scholarship and developed the project with their support. Her collection demonstrates innovative applications for agricultural food waste streams. Exploring ancient fibres and new textile developments, she has achieved to employ a wide range of sustainable materials in her work. Visit her website to see how she explored each material to create a sustainable fashion collection.
Rosamund Hanny set up a textile bureau for ethical textile prints. As a platform, her ‘Ethical Textile Print Room‘ aims to share the work of sustainable textile designers. Beautifully made, her degree show pieces make a point about sustainability in an engaging way. She applies the same approach of aesthetic quality in the selected projects on her web-platform, and found a way to promote ideas for sustainable design through communication pieces and good design.
We are thrilled to announce that Kay Politowicz has been appointed Professor Emeritus at the University of the Arts London. The title of Professor Emeritus of Textile Design at Chelsea College of Arts has been confered to Kay at a ceremony on 14th of July at the Royal Festival Hall. The title is effective immediately since Kay retired from UAL this year, and recognises the distinction with which she has served the University. As vigorous team member of the TED research group, she is still contributing to the outcomes of the MISTRA Future Fashion project and to the upcoming Textiletoolbox online exhibition launching in November.
This is an excerpt from the introduction by Professor Becky Earley at Kay’s Professorial Platform lecture in June 2013:
Kay has been an inspirational teaching and research leader in the field of textile design over the last thirty years. She led the team that built the textile design course at Chelsea from the BTec course in 1982, into the excellent BA course it has become today. In 1996 she co-founded the Textiles Environment Design (TED) research group, which is now a key platform with the UAL’s Textile Futures Research Centre (TFRC). Both achievements are highly regarded in the field of textile design in the international arena today, particularly in terms of creativity and originality.
It is that same vision that recognised in the mid 1990’s the need for the teaching team to become more aware of the environmental impacts of the industry. The TED group specifically aimed to educate and inspire both the lecturers and the students. When Kay moved from full time course direction into research in 2008 TED inevitably flourished. In 2010 Kay co-authored TED’s TEN, a set of design tactics that guide the textile designer through the complex terrain of sustainability. The TEN have been developed from our collaborative work in teaching, research and enterprise, and are now being used to probe the industry to seek workable ideas for systemic change.
See the full video of the Professorial Platform lecture here and read the publication on the UAL Research Issuu account.