All Makers Now?

Kate Goldsworthy is presenting a paper on ‘Visions for Future Manufacturing’ at All Makers Now? Craft Values in 21st Century Production, a 2-day conference organised by the award winning Autonomatic Research Group, based at Falmouth University, on the 10th-11th July 2014.

All Makers Now?, will raise questions about how, where and why the complex and subtly nuanced characteristics of craft merge with those of digital production, rapid prototyping and the superfast information highway. A vision of a world in which anyone can be a maker and an entrepreneur raises questions about the value of craft in 21st century production, enabling an exploration of its significance within a variety of disciplines and communities, and opening up new perspectives on its role in facing current social, economic and environmental challenges. Aimed at makers and researchers of all shapes and codes including hackers, crafters, inventors, designers, economists, curators and critical theorists, this two day conference will explore craft values, traditional making processes and novel forms of engagement, participation and interaction in digital and material cultures.

All Makers Now?

10-11 July 2014,

Falmouth University, Penryn Campus, Cornwall

Resilience – The New Research Frontier

Professor Becky Earley has co-authored a conference paper that was presented at the 20th Annual International Sustainable Development Research Conference (ISDR) ‘Resilience – The New Research Frontier‘, in Trondheim, Norway, this June.

The paper titled ‘Design Thinking for Sustainability; A Case Study of a Research Project between H&M and the Textiles Environment Design Project’ was co-authored with Kirsti Reitan Andersen from project 1 in the MISTRA Future Fashion consortium. The paper focused on the bespoke training program that TED developed and delivered for H&M in 2013.

Ezio Manzini was one of the keynote speakers at the conference. He is running the Cultures of Resilience project at CSM, which Professor Becky Earley and Professor Carole Collet are part of.

Growing a Circular Economy: Parliamentary Inquiry

Kate Goldsworthy was invited recently to give evidence at the Environmental Audit Committee’s inquiry into ‘Growing a Circular Economy’. Other witnesses called at the meeting included Professor Rob Holdway, Director, Giraffe Innovation Ltd; Sophie Thomas, Director, The Great Recovery, RSA; Ramon Arratia, Sustainability Director, Interface Carpets; Matthew Bulley, Managing Director, Caterpillar Remanufacturing; and Mike Barry, Director of Sustainable Business, Marks & Spencer.

In recent years, there has been a growing discussion of resource efficiency, the ‘circular economy’ and the economic and environmental benefits of maximising the value of resources beyond the life of a product. The Environmental Audit Committee aims to examine the issues surrounding building a circular economy, building a case for transforming the approach to waste, and growing a ‘circular economy’

▪   The potential economic value of resources contained in ‘waste’

▪   The key domestic and international links and resource value chains

▪   The environmental benefits of the circular economy (including design to reduce, re-use, repair/remanufacture and recycling or composting)

▪   The potential benefits of alternative business models, including leasing and design for re-use

▪   The barriers to ‘circular’ business models

Written evidence can be accessed through the committee’s website.

The full transcript of the session can be seen here.

BA Textile Design Graduate Show 2014

This year’s Graduates from the BA Textile Design course at Chelsea College of Arts equally demonstrate modernity, professionalism and material exploration. The excellent output is linked to an awareness of sustainability and material impacts.

Dora Burns’ work explores co-design by working with people on her allotment. Dora explored five recipes for collaborative local pattern making, including found materials and resist prints with dyes grown and foraged. The stories and the process are documented on her blog. Through this process she wanted to explore how patterns can be used to capture a fleeting moment related to a place or to the personality of a person.

Another graduate, Mario Zhou, incorporated backpacks in garments. He said that the FLEX project, using ‘The TEN’ TED sustainable strategies in his second year, was significant in changing the approach to designing in their group.

The work this year is very focused on experiments with new materials and 3-dimensionality. Sports geometrics reflectives by Lucy Poulden featured next to day-glow features by Lucy Hardcastle whereas Ji Chen’s work explores his woven fabrics bonded onto neoprene structures.

The degree projects aim to engage us in different ways, and spatial installations feature equally next to fashion collections. Abby Bucknall created a space with orbs & lasered polyesters to re-engage our senses to truly understand and appreciate what textures feel like in reality in our increasingly digitised lives.

Seeing digital as material is a very interesting concept explored by Honami Nishii. Printing computer files as textile reliefs, she was inspired by how digital technology is influenced by our lives. In her graduate collection, data is a material with very special qualities: it is flexible, it can not age, and we can output it anytime. Using digital icons as print patterns, she imagined what materiality these intangible elements have.

Intangible elements become also visible in the fashion collection by Sabrina Shah Hakim. Titled ‘Controlled Chaos’, her material experimentation uses a water spray to demonstrate patterns that would be revealed on a raincoat.

These examples from the show and other inventive applications of both new and old material processes, demonstrate the graduating students’ awareness of the many contemporary contexts for textile design.

An overview of all projects from the degree show is available on the Chelsea Textile Design website.

Chelsea College of Arts Undergraduate Summer Show 2014

We hope you can make it to celebrate the work of the 2014 designers at the Chelsea College of Arts Undergraduate Summer Show, featuring work by graduating students from BA Textiles as well as from the courses BA Fine Art, BA Graphic Design Communication, BA Interior & Spatial Design, FdA Interior Design, BA Textile Design, Graduate Diploma Interior Design.

The BA Textile Design degree show includes work across print, weave, knit and stitch. This year they have explored a wide range of applications for textiles including fashion, interiors, spatial contexts such as installations, sculpture, object-based product, digital projection and interactive design.

Open to general public:

Saturday 14th June – Sunday 15th June: 11am – 5pm

Monday 16th June – Friday 20th June: 10am – 8pm

Saturday 21st June: 11am – 5pm

Chelsea College of Arts
16 John Islip Street

MISTRA Future Fashion Symposium 2014

Last week the TED team attended the MISTRA Future Fashion symposium at Innventia. Innventia is one of the leading Swedish research and development companies that works with innovations based on forest raw materials. ‘New sustainable technology for the textile value chain’ was the theme of this year’s symposium, where industry partners were invited to see how the consortium projects contribute to a circular economy.

The symposium was hosted by Project 6 within the consortium, with the aim to develop ‘fashion for the public sector’ in Sweden with new material choices to increase wellbeing for patients. The day started with the research projects presenting the results in the MiFuFa consortium so far. Professor Becky Earley presented TED’s outcomes from Phase 1 of the research project with MISTRA, where sustainable design thinking training in companies and science design collaborations for innovative prototyping are key. One of these collaborative projects has been initiated by Kay Politowicz and Kate Goldsworthy with paper technology by Hjalmar Granberg of Innventia. The work explores the potential for the Swedish paper industry to become a key player in future garment production for a ‘Paper Cloth’ collection of fast fashion prototypes, using new production and finishing technologies.

The symposium aimed to engage discussions regarding technical solutions to close the loop around fashion and textiles, and to look at the next developments in this area. Invited speakers from Lenzing, Lauffenmühle, Pepwing spin dye technologies, Filippa K, I:Collect, Soex and Re:Newcell addressed different aspects of the textile value chain. An interactive presentation by the Lifecycle Assessment team of project 2 engaged the audience with the latest LCA methods.

Transition: Re-thinking Textiles and Surfaces

The University of Huddersfield will host the Transition conference on 26th and 27th of November with keynote speakers Professor Becky Earley, Lidewij Edelkoort, David Shah and Professor Jane Harris.

Textiles and Surfaces have surrounded us in different forms for millennia. From the use of fibres and materials sourced and made from bark, wood, sand, glass, bone and skin to multi-structural and unconventional materials for interior, architectural and wearable functional design, textiles and surfaces have inspired and evolved our relationships with materials, space and form. This conference proposes to explore the future of textiles and surfaces within different industries and contexts. The conference aims to examine current and future developments in the field asking: how might we re-think textiles and surfaces in a climate of transition?

The conference invites papers for one of the four tracks below:

▪   Science and Technology

▪   Sustainable Futures

▪   Craftmanship and the Hand Made

▪   Enterprise/Industry/Business

The deadline for submission of abstracts is 14th of July.

A full website with conference proceedings, hotel and venue information and registration is available here.

EcoChic Design Award 2014/15

The EcoChic Design Award is a sustainable fashion design competition challenging emerging fashion designers to create mainstream clothing with minimal textile waste. The 2014/15 cycle is now open to designers across Hong Kong, Mainland China, Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, UK, France, Germany, Sweden and Denmark.

Following months of inspired design and rigorous judging, ten finalists will show their collections and compete for career-changing prizes at Hong Kong Fashion Week.

The 1st Prize includes designing a capsule collection using up-cycled textiles for Shanghai Tang. Other prizes include learning resources from Bloomsbury, and The Ethical Fashion Forum and many other career boosting opportunities.

The challenge is to ‘re-orient’ your design palette to reflect ‘Modern China Chic’ through your contemporary and wearable womenswear collection. This must celebrate the past, present and future fabric of China’s dynamic cultural and style influences in today’s global fashion stage in your design-centric collection that reflects style as much as sustainability.

The application is open between 15 April – 15 August 2014.

For more information on the competition design brief and to download the application form visit the EcoChic Design Award website.

Student Placements with Digital Design Residents

The V&A’s digital design residents, the T/Shirt Issue, are looking for a small number of fashion students to gain some work-based experience working alongside them during their residency period. The collective, usually based in Berlin, are in residence in one of the studios in the Museum until the end of September 2014.

During their residency, the collective aim to 3d scan a number of the V&A’s objects and use this digital data to create patterns to be printed out and made into original garments which will be displayed in the Museum during London Design Festival. Work placement students can expect to assist the residents with production of garments through pattern cutting and sewing. There will also be an opportunity to help during public facing workshops and events, if this is of interest.

Deadline for applications for this volunteer work placement position is 21st of May. More information for how to apply can be found here.

Post-Carbon Design Workshop, Berlin

TED PhD students Bridget Harvey and Clara Vuletich will facilitate a workshop at Kunsthochschule Weissensee Berlin this week. Working with students on a local sustainable development project, they will apply design thinking to create new concepts for a local region in Germany that has suffered from low employment and diminishing populations.

Clara will be introducing The TEN design strategies, her research on ‘sustainable designerly ways of knowing’, and the character Ms. Bricolage she is developing in order to communicate and encourage the students to think about more holistic ways to approach the design process.