Future Fashion Manifesto

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28th-29th September 2015 

Professor Becky Earley spoke at the Mistra Future Fashion event held at Stockholm’s School of Economics on the 28th-29th September. The Mistra Future Fashion research program seeks to achieve systemic sustainable change within the fashion industry and brings together the expertise and networks of leading Swedish and international research institutes and universities.

The event held at the Stockholm School of Economics was the first public dissemination of the research for phase 1 (2011-2015). Research partners presented their main findings and summarised their plans for the second phase of research (2015-2019). As a result of collated insights from phase 1 a Future Fashion Manifesto has been developed. This describes current knowledge and forms a roadmap for further research. You can download the manifesto here.

A Pop-up exhibition of the Textile Toolbox prototypes developed by researchers at TED was shown and assisted in demonstrating and stimulating discussion around TED’s The TEN sustainable design strategies.

http://www.mistrafuturefashion.com

Written by Helen Paine

Textile Toolbox at Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York

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The Textile Toolbox Pop- Up exhibition will open in the Pomerantz Art and Design Centre at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York. The exhibition runs from June 8 to 19, 2015, and will be on view during FIT’s Summer Institute Sustainability and Textiles conference, from June 8 to 11.

Professor Becky Earley will speak at the conference with other speakers including Manufacture New York, Loomstate, Nature Works and Eileen Fisher. The talk on Wednesday, June 10, will be followed up by a panel for an opportunity to interact directly with our attendees. In the afternoon, Professor Becky Earley will run a The TEN workshop.

The full Summer Institute program is available here.

Location

The Fashion Institute of Technology

Fred P. Pomerantz Art and Design Center

Seventh Avenue at 27 Street

New York City

Exhibition Dates

June 8-19, 2015

Textile Toolbox in Uppsala

Uppsala Blog Image[1]

In May the Textile Toolbox Pop-up exhibition travelled with TED’s junior researcher Josefin Landalv to Upplandsmuseet in Sweden. The regions craft organization was celebrating their 100-year jubilee with a summer exhibition made by local craft talents.

The title of the exhibition is Craft is Life, and the pieces were inspired by the museum archives. Its main objectives are to question why we do craft today and illustrate craft as it exists in the present day. The crafters’ response is displayed under the themes: material, shape, the home, the human body and activism.

Josefin’s Textile Toolbox exhibit Sweaver is part of the exhibition. The piece, which is a sample collection woven out of Swedish post consumer textile waste and TENCEL yarn, suggests a service between Swedish hand weavers and its consumers. Sweden does not currently recycle any textile waste and most of it is incinerated. Through this proposed service and skilled craftsmanship textile waste could get a second life instead of going up in flames.

After the exhibition launch the visitors were invited to listen to a talk in the auditorium about the Textile Toolbox project. The Textile Toolbox Exhibition is a collection of ten pieces created by the TED researchers in collaboration with scientists, academics and professionals for the end of the first phase of the MISTRA Future Fashion Project. The different exhibition pieces create a toolkit of instructions, which aim to assist textile designers to make better-informed decisions that lead to more sustainable products.

Following the talk there was time for the audience to have a closer look at the exhibits and ask questions. The main feedback from the spectators was that the Textile Toolbox content made them feel more aware of the issues when creating sustainable textiles and inspired them to do something about it. The crowd, who were mostly members of the local craft organisation found that Strategy 1 – Design to Minimize Waste and Strategy 6 – Design that Takes Models from Nature and History, were particularly relevant for their own practice. Great interest was also shown for the aesthetics and the DIY personalisation aspects of Professor Becky Earley’s upcycled polyester top Fast Refashion. A number of the crafters also said they would be interested in a national upcycling service such as Sweaver.

Textile Toolbox at Borås Fashion Textile Centre

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Professor Becky Earley is the keynote speaker at a seminar organised by SP, the Technical Research Institute of Sweden, at Borås Textile Fashion Centre on 27th of April. The talk was part of ”The forest on the catwalk” event that focused on textiles and fashion from Swedish innovation. Moderated by the MISTRA Future Fashion communication manager Sigrid Barnekow, the event included speakers Mats Westin, Anna Palme, Mikael Lindström, Hans Grundberg and Kristina Elg Christoffersson.

What is needed to make the Swedish forest industry the fashion industry’s main supplier of raw materials? Today, research is ongoing in all parts of the supply chain, and examples abound of how forests can be converted into clothing. In an era of climate change we are changing the field in which new innovations are made through the encounter of different disciplines. What are the barriers for achieving a sustainable future economy? One thing we can be certain of is that the future garment production will not look like today.

Since five years SP has invited all industrial customers and collaboration partners to an annual event with presentations of exciting research projects, workshops and interactive exhibitions. This year SP organised six events each with a different theme, including MedTech, transport and automotive, and textiles.

Professor Earley’s keynote speech included the first catwalk show of the garments of the Textile Toolbox exhibition. Attendees were invited to interact with the samples and garment prototypes at the Textile Toolbox Pop Up show set up by Professor Becky Earley and Miriam Ribul in the Borås Textile Fashion Centre.

EAD 11 – The Value of Design Research

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Professor Becky Earley is in Paris this week to present a paper at ‘EAD 11 – The Value of Design Research’, the 11th International European Academy of Design conference. The paper titled ‘A New ‘T’ for Textiles: Training Design Researchers to Inspire Buying Office Staff Towards Sustainability at Hennes & Mauritz (H&M)‘ is co-authored by Professor Becky Earley, Phil Hadridge and MISTRA PhD researchers Kirsti Reitan Andersen and Clara Vuletich.

The themes of the conference are:

  • Excellence in Design Research
  • Interdisciplinary Innovation
  • Towards more Human Value in Society
  • Design Research Value for Organisations

 

More information on the conference is available on the EAD website.

Textile Toolbox Pop-Up at Resource event

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TED Researchers presented at two workshops as part of the leading industry Circular Economy event ‘Resource’ at ExCel this week.

In the morning, Dr  Kate Goldsworthy’s presented TED’s projects at the workshop ‘Towards a Circular Textile Industry – Exploring proactive approaches to realize circular material flows in the Textile Industry’, hosted by Circle Economy, Netherlands.

In the afternoon Kate was joined by Miriam Ribul to run a workshop hosted by the RSA and The Great Recovery. This session, ‘Round the Kitchen Table’ at the RSA stand, was a Pop-Up presentation of the Textile Toolbox exhibition and offered the opportunity for attendees to interact with textile samples that each explore strategies for design towards a sustainable future fashion industry.

Resource is the UK’s largest free-to-attend circular economy event. The full event listings are available on the Resource website. This event is open at the ExCel Centre from 3rd to 5th of March 2015.

TEXTILE TOOLBOX Open Call

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Our Textile Toolbox platform aims to connect leading sustainable design thinkers and makers in this open call for work using interconnected design thinking and processes for sustainable textiles and fashion.

We are inviting a global audience of designers to visit the site, sign up and submit design projects for our Open Gallery space and to become part of our Open Network. We invite each submission to use and select from the TED strategies, and to apply a layered approach to the strategies to describe the work. We will select the ten projects that will demonstrate the strongest links to the strategies – innovative systemic and material approaches for textile design that fuse different disciplines in one design proposal. We want the prototypes to provoke debate, and conversations to ripple out – leading to real change.

Please download the TEXTILE TOOLBOX Open Call template and submit it to tfrc@tfrc.org.uk by 12th of January to be considered for our Open Gallery showcase and take our survey to tell us more about yourself. In addition to the online feature, we will publish the selected projects in our industry report for our MISTRA Future Fashion research in May 2015.

TED events and research update – Professor Becky Earley

CCW Professor Becky Earley and the Textile Environment Design (TED) team have had a busy autumn term. As well as her work with TED, Earley is Director of the Textile Futures Research Centre based at Central Saint Martins. ‘It’s been a work whirlwind autumn for the TED team at Chelsea, as we launched our Mistra Future Fashion online exhibition with a 24-hour pop up show in the Banqueting Hall at Chelsea on 13th November,’ said Earley (to view the Textile Toolbox work and take part in a survey, visit www.textiletoolbox.com). ‘The 10 new “provotypes” (prototypes that provoke debate) suggest new materials, processes, services, systems and business models for the future sustainability of the Swedish fashion industry.

textile toolbox event

Guests at the Pop Up exhibition for www.textiletoolbox.com looking at the Becky Earley’s sketchbook for the Shanghai Shirt exhibit (photo: Mischa Haller)

The day after the show came down I flew to Stockholm to continue with the Mistra research. Studying ancient making and repair tools in the Vasa Museum (which houses the incredible warship ship that sank on its inaugural voyage in 1628), I noted ways in which garments and accessories were made and repaired. The next task in Stockholm was to deliver a workshop for 17 fashion companies, showing them how to use the Higg Index and TED’s The TEN to redesign best-selling products in their range. The best result this year was a 41% improvement in environmental impact – not bad for a one-day workshop!

SFA November 2014

Participants at the SFA Mistra workshop, November 18th 2014

The next morning it was off to Nottingham Trent University to be a panellist for a debate titled “Is Technology Killing Hand-made Crafts?”; part of a series of events marking 170 years of the art school. Grant Gibson, editor of the Crafts Council’s magazine, chaired the debate in the Newton building. Panelists, including Tavs Jørgensen, ceramic potter and research fellow at the Autonomatic Research Group, University College Falmouth, and Christopher Breward, Professor of Cultural History at the University of Edinburgh, Principal of Edinburgh College of Art and Vice Principal of the University (Creative Arts), questioned whether there is still a place for teaching traditional craft in art and design higher education as preparation for work in today and tomorrow’s creative industries.

Early the following morning I was Glasgow bound to present the Mistra Future Fashion work at a Zero Waste Scotland event, working with the Design in Action team from Dundee University and recent CCW PhD graduate Dr Jen Ballie. I showcased the physical textile samples and garments from the exhibition and talked the audience through the online exhibition. The audience was particularly interested in the work of CCW BA Textiles graduate and TED Junior Researcher Josefin Landalv. The proposed network of 10,000 Swedish cabin weavers using discarded clothing to save it from incineration resonated with the Scottish industry stakeholders and their wool industry.

Zero Waste scotland 2014

Delegates at Zero Waste Scotland examining the Mistra Future Fashion work

Finally, it was on to Huddersfield University and a keynote talk at the Transition Textiles conference, where I once again showed the Mistra work, but this time focussing on the journey the TED team went on from material innovation, to systems and social considerations, to the sense of the self. Titled “The ‘i’ in the Textile Toolbox Team” I presented my own work and that of CCW PhD researcher Clara Vuletich. We have both been considering insights from the field of neuroscience and the effect that meditation has on the brain, and on the textile designer working in the field of sustainability. Ehrenfeld (2008)* suggests that in order to move towards sustainability we have to become our “whole selves”, and it seemed fitting to end this busy research dissemination period with a chance to pause and reflect on the values we are instilling in our students and the real benefits of our research on our colleagues and ultimately ourselves.’

The final presentation of the term will be this week at the House of Lords on Wednesday evening, where I will be showing the Mistra project to the All Parliamentary Working Group for Design and Innovation.

*Ehrenfeld, J. (2008) Sustainability by Design: A Subversive Strategy for Transforming our Consumer Culture, Yale University Press: UK

TEXTILE TOOLBOX launch event and Pop-Up exhibition

exhibition

Please join us for the launch of the TEXTILE TOOLBOX online exhibition with a 24- hour Pop-Up event at Chelsea College of Arts. The TEXTILE TOOLBOX exhibition is a showcase of ten propositional design concepts inspired by Mistra research into the sustainability of the fashion and textile industry.

Thursday 13 November 2014, 6–8pm
Talks, drinks and smörgåsbord

Friday 14 November 2014, 10am–5pm
View the exhibition

Venue and RSVP

Banqueting Hall
Chelsea College of Arts and Design
London SW1P 4RJ

Please RSVP to tfrc@tfrc.org.uk by 2 November to attend the evening launch event (no need to RSVP to view the exhibition on the Friday).

Pop-Up Exhibition

We are exhibiting a project showcase about the ‘Textile Toolbox’ online exhibition in the Banqueting Hall at Chelsea, from 6pm on the 13th to 3pm on the 14th of November 2014.

The exhibition platform functions as a research and public engagement tool formed around TED’s ‘The TEN’ – design strategies for innovative sustainability thinking and action. The exhibition proposes how these strategies can translate technical and scientific research breakthroughs into design concepts. The new products demonstrate the potential for progressing a sustainable fashion system with new materials, processes, applications and business models. The exhibits are a starting point for discussion – provocations, or ‘provotypes’ – showing us how design tools can create entirely new visions for the future of the industry. This unique online platform offers a global audience a glimpse of a sustainable future fashion industry. An industry that ultimately gives the consumer pleasure whilst also giving the planet and its inhabitants absolute consideration.

The format of the Pop-Up display will offer the opportunity for the exhibition to travel, and to be set up in other partner institutions and organisations. Get in touch if you would like to tour the show.

Exhibits

The final design pieces use a strategic ‘TEN’ approach to create beautiful fashions for style fans to savour, with aesthetics connecting and responding to the scientific research of the MISTRA Future Fashion consortium. Each of the ten exhibits have applied TED’s ‘layered thinking’ approach and connect more than one of The TEN strategies in the design brief and outcome. For the showcase, we will demonstrate how each card ‘hand’ uses a ‘lead card’ or strategy along with other strategies to create a unique design brief for future fashion.

1 Seamsdress, by Dr Kate Goldsworthy
2 A.S.A.P (Paper Cloth), by Prof Kay Politowicz, Sandy MacLennan  (East Central), Dr Kate Goldsworthy, David Telfer (COS) and Dr Hjalmar Granberg (Innventia)
3 Shanghai Shirt by Prof. Becky Earley and Isabel Dodd
4 Inner/Outer Jacket by Clara Vuletich
5 DeNAture, by Miriam Ribul in collaboration with Hanna de la Motte (SP)
6 ReDressing Activism, by Prof. Becky Earley, Emmeline Child and Bridget Harvey
7 Smörgåsbord, by Melanie Bowles and Kathy Round
8 Sweaver, by Josefin Tissingh
9 Fast Refashion, by Prof. Becky Earley
10 A Jumper to Lend, A Jumper to Mend, by Bridget Harvey

Resources

The collaborations with scientists, academics and professionals, have lead to toolkits for action, instructions for making, resources for learning, and films to sit back and watch. International training tools and education models will be available from the site as a free download in the final report in June 2015.

Open Call

We are inviting a global audience of designers to visit the site, sign up and submit design projects for our Open Gallery space. We invite each submission to use the TED strategies, and to apply a layered approach of the strategies to describe the work. We will select the ten projects that will demonstrate the strongest links to the strategies – innovative systemic and material approaches for textile design that fuse different disciplines in one design proposal. We want the prototypes to provoke debate, and conversations to ripple out – leading to real change.

Review

We invite reviewers to our exhibition. Please contact tfrc@tfrc.org.uk to get in touch.

For more information

Please contact Angela Hartley, TFRC Manager, tfrc@tfrc.org.uk
To follow the project’s progress and send feedback use Twitter,
@textiletoolbox, Facebook group, or the project website.

www.textiletoolbox.com
www.mistrafuturefashion.com

The Design Journal: Black Hack Chat workshop

Black Hack Chat Becky Earley 400

Rebecca Earley and Jen Ballie have written on the Black Hack Chat workshop they lead at 10th EAD conference in Gothenburg, April 2013. Their reflection on the workshop has been included in In the Making: The ‘Power to the People’ Workshop Track at Crafting the Future, an article edited by Otto Von Busch and published in The Design Journal volume 17 issue 3, September 2014.

“Over the last decade several projects and exhibitions have explored how crafts can play a central role for empowerment through social development, innovation and entrepreneurship. In order to facilitate this, there is a need to explore how craft practices can act as tools for empowerment, both in research and practice. The ‘Power to the People’ track at the European Academy of Design conference in Gothenburg 2013 tried to answer on this challenge with a series craft- based seminars, each centred on a participant’s proposed craft or ‘Paper of Practice’. this formed a series of practice-based seminars that mixed hands-on activities and discussion, centred on and emerging from the very act of doing.”

– Busch, O. (2014) “In the Making: The ‘Power to the People’ Workshop Track at Crafting the Future”, The Design Journal, vol. 17:3, September, pp379-402.

Black Hack Chat – a collaborative workshop was designed for the 10th EAD conference in Gothenburg – combined two research projects: the Black Hack approach was fused with Old is the New Black, where Jen Ballie and Otto von Busch re-worked old clothes using black paint. The aim of the EAD workshop was to push the boundaries of textile design practice through co-design, to identify how it can be used as a tool for citizen engagement for both the individual creating for themselves, and the retailer who wishes to creatively engage with their products over a longer time frame. In the run up to the event Earley made Fractal Shirt (2013) using a domestic iron, and published a ‘Shirt Film’ for people who wanted to make at home during the workshop session.

The full article can be downloaded here.