TED Textile Toolbox workshop at Norwich University of the Arts

Helen Paine recently completed her PhD at Royal College of Art and is associated to TED via her PhD supervisor, Dr Kate Goldsworthy. This month Helen used TED’s TEN and the Textile Toolbox web platform to structure a future materials workshop for a group of 2nd and 3rd year Textiles students at Norwich University of the Arts. The session began with a short lecture that introduced TED’s research, their TEN sustainable research strategies and Textile-Toolbox pop-up exhibits. After this initial introduction, students were asked to reflect on their own practice and consider how they might develop a favourite sample from a previous project with reference to TED’s TEN. They worked together as a group to discuss ideas, which informed the development of their own sustainable manifestos. Each student presented their manifesto back to the group at the end of the morning session. There were some great ideas on ways of making their practice more sustainable, such as using dry processing methods to reduce water waste; substituting materials to maintain mono-materiality for closed-loop recycling; and building the consumer into their design process to reduce the need to consume.

BA Textiles students at Norwich University of the Arts developing sustainable manifestos for their work using TEDs TEN

Students took a more practical approach in the afternoon session to learn about the work of TED and performed Becky Earley’s Fast Refashion technique on a used polyester shirt. Helen wore a shirt that she had already transformed using the technique to inspire students and give them some ideas for their own designs. Stencils were cut from heat-transfer papers and applied directly to the surface of the shirt using a heat press. Through this exercise students were introduced to a quick and simple way of refashioning mono-material polyester clothing and were able to give their clothing a new lease of life for prolonged wear. Some of the students loved their transformed shirts so much that they wore them home from the session. Thanks TED for a great Toolbox of inspirational ideas!


BA Textiles students at Norwich University of the Arts performing Becky Earley’s Fast-Refashion technique on used polyester clothing

Circular Transitions – The Big Themes

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The Circular Transition Conference is fast approaching and this series of blogposts will keep you up date with the latest news and developments as the final pieces of the event fall into place. The conference, which is part of a research project for the Mistra Future Fashion consortium will be the first global event to bring together academic and industry research for fashion textiles for the circular economy.

During the coming weeks we will introduce the four keynote speakers Cyndi Rhoades (Worn Again), Sophie Thomas (Thomas Matthews, The Great Recovery), Elin Larsson (Filippa K) and Ed van Hinte (Lightness Studio/ DRS22). The speakers will focus on the three sub themes of the conference: Materials, Models and Mindsets. We will also start announcing the exhibitors who are a group of pioneers demonstrating the latest innovative materials, processes and design models in this field.

TED Researcher to Speak at Sustainable Fashion Event with the Queen of Sweden

Lead Researcher to Speak at German

Everything you can imagine is real –  Bea Szenfeld

 

This week Professor Rebecca Earley will speak at the Facing the Fashion Paradigm shift – The Relevance of Sustainability Seminar at the opening of the Everything you can imagine is real exhibition in Berlin.

 

The event will be attended by Her Royal Majesty Queen Silvia of Sweden who officially will inaugurate the exhibition and open the seminar.

 

In connection to the exhibition, an expert seminar moderated by Chairman Rolf Heimann, hessnatur Foundation will take place. Among others, participants such as the Sustainability Manager at H&M, Hendrik Heuermann, Sustainability Director Elin Larsson, Filippa K and author Magdalena Schaffrin, will take part in the discussions. Can different business cycles from fast fashion to slow fashion be a way to tackle irreversible challenges in the fashion industry?

 

The exhibition presents images created by The Royal Swedish Opera with Stockholm Graphics, Karolina Henke, Carl Thorborg and Stina Wirsén and last but not least 15 artworks from the paper collection Haute papier – the white Collection –  from Bea Szenfeld. The spectacular handmade creations are the result from crafts and ideas rooted in a desire to make society more equal and open, hence the name of the exhibition.

THE BIG FIX

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TED PhD Researcher Bridget Harvey would like to invite you to Hackney Fixers second festival of repairing – THE BIG FIX.

 

Once again there will be the cramming of as much repair activity as possible into one space, featuring:

 

  • The Restart Project, electrical and electronic repair
  • Traid: clothing and textile repair, and upcycling
  • School of Stuff: chair repair advice
  • Hackney Bike Workshop: cycle checks and repairing
  • Sugru, repair demonstrations and more…

 

All the people involved are passionate repairers who will help you to repair your own things – bring along your broken stuff and learn skills to fix it!

 

Bring, fix, learn, enjoy…and it’s free!

 

Date: Saturday 17th September, 12pm – 4pm
Location: The Gallery, Stoke Newington Library, Edward’s Lane N16 0JS, London

 

The Restart Project   TRAID   The School of Stuff   Sugru   Hackney Bike Workshop

TED PhD Researcher Exhibiting at Experiencing Change / Changing Experience

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Bridget Harvey is exhibiting in Experiencing Change / Changing Experience at ONCA Gallery, Brighton from 27th July –5th August. Her piece the Spelman Cups (2016) explores Elizabeth Spelman’s definitions of non-repairers and our complex relationship with repair.

 

The exhibition investigates a world where environment and society is in a state of flux with large, and sometimes devastating changes predicted for the future. Change can seem inevitable or out of our hands, so how much influence do we have on change? Do we just react to the changes we experience or can we intervene?

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International artists from the e:collective launch their debut exhibition of new work exploring relationships with change on a social, economic, environmental and personal level. The exhibition will challenge, enact, refresh and stimulate our perceptions and thoughts on change, and will be viewed alongside current research by scientists at the Global Sustainability Institute, Anglia Ruskin University, Cambridge.

 

During the exhibition, artists in residence Mark Vennegoor and Aurora Sciabarra will each develop new work in the gallery, inviting visitors to participate in their practice. The project is devised by lead artist Valerie Furnham in collaboration with researcher Dr. Rosie Robison [GSI], and with the support of Arts Council England, ONCA Gallery and the Global Sustainability Institute.

 

PREVIEW | Tuesday 26th July 6:30pm – 9pm. Please RSVP to valerie.furnham@gmail.com

 

Address
ONCA Gallery | 14 St. George’s Place, Brighton BN1 4GB

 

Date
27th July –5th August 2016

EcoSessions: The Crisis of Stuff

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TED researcher Professor Rebecca Earley will be one of the panelists in EcoSessions: The Crisis of Stuff panel discussion later this week. The panel consists of Beyond Retro’s CEO Steven Bethell, the co-founder of Fashion Revolution Orsola de Castro and will be moderated by ethical fashion and sustainable living expert Kate Black.

 

The fashion industry is producing 150 billion garments per year and too many are ending up in landfill. This EcoSession focuses on the crisis of a consumerism, consumption and the opportunity for change. The panelists will give the audience a fuller, richer and more honest picture of our current ‘crisis of stuff’ and what can be done about it.

 

Steven Bethell: Beyond Retro CEO Steven Bethell has been in the recycling business for over 20 years, starting out with glass, cans, and paper before moving on to textiles. As an offshoot of his Canada-based textile trade company Bank & Vogue, Beyond Retro was an early pioneer of the east London vintage scene at its inception 13 years ago, and remains a seminal retailer for savvy secondhand shoppers across the UK and Sweden. The brand comes to Pure with its eponymous Beyond Retro Label, a fully-fledged fashion brand of apparel and accessories crafted from reclaimed materials. Bethell’s career-defining passion for sustainability makes him the perfect candidate to advise retailers on successfully integrating this message into their marketing strategy.

 

Prof. Rebecca Earley: Trained as a printed textile designer (BA Hons, Loughborough, 1992) and fashion print designer (MA, Central Saint Martins, 1994), Becky set up the B.Earley studio in 1995 with help from the Prince’s Trust, Arts Council and the Crafts Council. She is also a design researcher at University of the Arts London and an industry consultant. She divides her working life between Central Saint Martins where she is Director of TFRC, Chelsea College of Arts where she is a principal and co researcher in TED, and Sweden where she is key part of the research consortium work for MISTRA Future Fashion and the EU Horizon 2020 project, Trash-2-Cash. Prof. Earley also supervises PhD researchers who are exploring sustainable textile design and material innovation.

 

Orsola de Castro: A pioneer and internationally recognised opinion leader in sustainable fashion. In 1997 she founded From Somewhere, a label designing clothes made entirely from pre-consumer waste: disregarded materials such as surplus and production cut-offs. The label combined sustainable thinking with fashion-forward design, bringing quality and craftsmanship to ‘exquisite rubbish’. From Somewhere collaborations include Jigsaw, Tesco, Speedo, and a series of best selling capsule collections for Topshop. In 2006, she co-founded the British Fashion Council pioneering initiative Estethica, which she curated until 2014. Estethica was London Fashion Week’s showcase for labels designing sustainably: ethics and aesthetics combined. It nurtured new generations of like-minded designers and supported more established brands who are mindful of their supply chain. In 2014, with Carry Somers, she founded Fashion Revolution Day, marking the disaster in Dhaka, Bangladesh on 24 April 2013 when the Rana Plaza factory collapsed killing and injuring thousands of workers. Raising public awareness of the continuing social and environmental catastrophes in our global fashion supply chains, Fashion Revolution has become a global campaign with participation in over 85 countries around the world. Orsola is a regular key note speaker and mentor as well as a Central Saint Martins Visiting Fellow and Practitioner in Residence for Central Saint Martins Fashion MA.

 

Kate Black: Recognized as an expert in ethical fashion and sustainable living, Kate Black is the founder of Magnifeco.com (launched ’09) and author of ‘Magnifeco: Your Head-to-Toe Guide to Ethical Fashion and Non-Toxic Beauty’ (published 10/15), which has been featured in The Guardian, Vogue Italia, Metro, NOW Magazine and more. Kate is also the founder of EcoSessions, a global event series connecting industry, designers and citizens to discuss change. Fashioned to provide learning, engagement and networking, EcoSessions are an opportunity for industry and the design communities to forge relationships and hatch collaborations and for citizens to engage directly with their favorite brands. She is highly in demand as a speaker and consults with CFDA fashion brands on elevating their Ethical IQ.

 

Book your ticket here!

 

Address:
Beyond Retro Dalston – 92-100 Stoke Newington Road, London, N16 7XB

Date:
Wednesday, July 20, 2016 from 6:30 PM to 8:30 PM

TED PhD researcher to Speak at TRAID Event

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On Thursday next week TED PhD researcher Bridget Harvey will be speaking at the eighth #TRAIDtalks along with two other leading voices with unique viewpoints on repair in the community. She will be speaking on the landscape and politics of repair-making, from a material and social point of view.

 

The other speakers for the evening are Janet Gunter, co-founder of the Restart Project and blogger Jen Gale from My Make Do And Mend Life.  The three are part of a passionate network of active citizens making headway with the repair movement – sharing skills to benefit the community with an aim to tackle waste and counter over-consumption and working to inspire a repair revolution with wellbeing, skill-sharing, community and concern for the environment at the very root.  To revive the forgotten art of repairing things and improving relationships with ‘stuff’, this #TRAIDtalks will involve story-telling and sharing case studies to inspire positive change within communities.

 

TRAID is a fashion reuse charity working to stop clothes from being thrown away.  They turn clothes waste into funds and resources to reduce the environmental and social impacts of our textile use. You can support TRAID’s work by bringing a bag of your unwanted wearable clothes, shoes and accessories for reuse and reselling through their charity shops.

 

Spaces are limited so please book your  free ticket in advance to avoid disappointment. Suggested donation on the door: £5 to support Ziferblat, a shared community space in Old Street.

 

 

Date:
Thursday 23rd of June, 18.30-20.00

 

Location:
Ziferblat, First Floor
388 Old Street
London, EC1V 9LT

Summer Institute at FIT

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Prof. Becky Earley will be a guest speaker at this year’s Summer Institute at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. Becky will speak about TED’s work within the Mistra Future Fashion project, which explores the possibility of designing textiles for different and specific lifespans within the circular economy. The talk ‘Designing for Circular Textile Speeds’ (Goldsworthy & Earley, 2016) will be will be accompanied by a ‘Circular Speeds’ workshop. The Summer Institute is a four-day conference for educators and professionals working in fashion and fashion-related areas. The conference consists of morning speakers and panels, with a key note given by Simone Cipriani of the Ethical Fashion Initiative, followed by hands on workshops in the afternoon.

For the full programme visit Summer Institute.

 

Blue Jumper

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TED PhD researcher Bridget Harvey is exhibiting her Blue Jumper (2012) in an exhibition of “thoughtfully mended textiles” called …by a thread… at Gawthorpe Hall, until 19th June 2016.

The exhibition aims to explore ideas around mending, after a year of building renovation and repair at the hall itself. From the curator:

“While the stonework within the Hall was being mended – quite invisibly – we became interested in repair which did the opposite. We started looking for examples of mending which were visible and actually made a feature of wear and tear. We discovered that with textile items, repair can be storytelling, creative and commemorative. It can add something extra and bring new meaning and emotion to an object. It can tell us more about people, history, memories and lives.”

The artefacts exhibited in …by a thread… all display thoughtful and careful repairs, and include Karen Suzuki’s rescued teddy, Jacy Wall’s Japanase boro jacket, David Worsley’s darned jeans, Angela Maddock’s repaired Wrangler jacket and Jenni Steele’s 1930s nurse’s apron, along with Claire Wellesley-Smith’s Japanese boro bloomers and Coreen Cottam’s family quilt. Each comes with a story written by the lender, explaining why the process and act of repair is significant to them.

About Blue Jumper

‘I consider Blue Jumper, a heavily darned navy blue jumper, to be a performative artwork that I wear and work on. I found it in pristine condition, in a charity shop off Old Street, London, now Blue Jumper is heavily darned yet still worn. As environmentalist I am anti-waste, and I wear only second-hand wool. When moths ate Blue Jumper, I continued wearing it.

This garment can be considered disobedient, and it certainly has a disobedient wearer. My stitched intervention displays my politics: my slogan not shouted but darned. Blue Jumper is personal, political, active and rebellious.

I find myself resilient against pressure to buy new: I can, I will, I am, through choice and necessity, wearing, repairing and re-wearing. In celebration of resistance and autonomy, like Plutarch’s Ship of Theseus, I will keep repairing Blue Jumper until all is repair, and beyond.’

Mistra Future Fashion April Newsletter

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Since 2011 TED has been a part of the Swedish funded, cross-disciplinary research program Mistra Future Fashion. Its vision is to close the loop in fashion and clothing – enabling a systemic change in the Swedish fashion industry, leading to a sustainable development of the industry and society.  Phase 2 research began in June 2015; read about the latest developments and progress within the program in this month’s newsletter.