TED events and research update – Professor Becky Earley

CCW Professor Becky Earley and the Textile Environment Design (TED) team have had a busy autumn term. As well as her work with TED, Earley is Director of the Textile Futures Research Centre based at Central Saint Martins. ‘It’s been a work whirlwind autumn for the TED team at Chelsea, as we launched our Mistra Future Fashion online exhibition with a 24-hour pop up show in the Banqueting Hall at Chelsea on 13th November,’ said Earley (to view the Textile Toolbox work and take part in a survey, visit www.textiletoolbox.com). ‘The 10 new “provotypes” (prototypes that provoke debate) suggest new materials, processes, services, systems and business models for the future sustainability of the Swedish fashion industry.

textile toolbox event

Guests at the Pop Up exhibition for www.textiletoolbox.com looking at the Becky Earley’s sketchbook for the Shanghai Shirt exhibit (photo: Mischa Haller)

The day after the show came down I flew to Stockholm to continue with the Mistra research. Studying ancient making and repair tools in the Vasa Museum (which houses the incredible warship ship that sank on its inaugural voyage in 1628), I noted ways in which garments and accessories were made and repaired. The next task in Stockholm was to deliver a workshop for 17 fashion companies, showing them how to use the Higg Index and TED’s The TEN to redesign best-selling products in their range. The best result this year was a 41% improvement in environmental impact – not bad for a one-day workshop!

SFA November 2014

Participants at the SFA Mistra workshop, November 18th 2014

The next morning it was off to Nottingham Trent University to be a panellist for a debate titled “Is Technology Killing Hand-made Crafts?”; part of a series of events marking 170 years of the art school. Grant Gibson, editor of the Crafts Council’s magazine, chaired the debate in the Newton building. Panelists, including Tavs Jørgensen, ceramic potter and research fellow at the Autonomatic Research Group, University College Falmouth, and Christopher Breward, Professor of Cultural History at the University of Edinburgh, Principal of Edinburgh College of Art and Vice Principal of the University (Creative Arts), questioned whether there is still a place for teaching traditional craft in art and design higher education as preparation for work in today and tomorrow’s creative industries.

Early the following morning I was Glasgow bound to present the Mistra Future Fashion work at a Zero Waste Scotland event, working with the Design in Action team from Dundee University and recent CCW PhD graduate Dr Jen Ballie. I showcased the physical textile samples and garments from the exhibition and talked the audience through the online exhibition. The audience was particularly interested in the work of CCW BA Textiles graduate and TED Junior Researcher Josefin Landalv. The proposed network of 10,000 Swedish cabin weavers using discarded clothing to save it from incineration resonated with the Scottish industry stakeholders and their wool industry.

Zero Waste scotland 2014

Delegates at Zero Waste Scotland examining the Mistra Future Fashion work

Finally, it was on to Huddersfield University and a keynote talk at the Transition Textiles conference, where I once again showed the Mistra work, but this time focussing on the journey the TED team went on from material innovation, to systems and social considerations, to the sense of the self. Titled “The ‘i’ in the Textile Toolbox Team” I presented my own work and that of CCW PhD researcher Clara Vuletich. We have both been considering insights from the field of neuroscience and the effect that meditation has on the brain, and on the textile designer working in the field of sustainability. Ehrenfeld (2008)* suggests that in order to move towards sustainability we have to become our “whole selves”, and it seemed fitting to end this busy research dissemination period with a chance to pause and reflect on the values we are instilling in our students and the real benefits of our research on our colleagues and ultimately ourselves.’

The final presentation of the term will be this week at the House of Lords on Wednesday evening, where I will be showing the Mistra project to the All Parliamentary Working Group for Design and Innovation.

*Ehrenfeld, J. (2008) Sustainability by Design: A Subversive Strategy for Transforming our Consumer Culture, Yale University Press: UK

TEXTILE TOOLBOX launch event and Pop-Up exhibition

exhibition

Please join us for the launch of the TEXTILE TOOLBOX online exhibition with a 24- hour Pop-Up event at Chelsea College of Arts. The TEXTILE TOOLBOX exhibition is a showcase of ten propositional design concepts inspired by Mistra research into the sustainability of the fashion and textile industry.

Thursday 13 November 2014, 6–8pm
Talks, drinks and smörgåsbord

Friday 14 November 2014, 10am–5pm
View the exhibition

Venue and RSVP

Banqueting Hall
Chelsea College of Arts and Design
London SW1P 4RJ

Please RSVP to tfrc@tfrc.org.uk by 2 November to attend the evening launch event (no need to RSVP to view the exhibition on the Friday).

Pop-Up Exhibition

We are exhibiting a project showcase about the ‘Textile Toolbox’ online exhibition in the Banqueting Hall at Chelsea, from 6pm on the 13th to 3pm on the 14th of November 2014.

The exhibition platform functions as a research and public engagement tool formed around TED’s ‘The TEN’ – design strategies for innovative sustainability thinking and action. The exhibition proposes how these strategies can translate technical and scientific research breakthroughs into design concepts. The new products demonstrate the potential for progressing a sustainable fashion system with new materials, processes, applications and business models. The exhibits are a starting point for discussion – provocations, or ‘provotypes’ – showing us how design tools can create entirely new visions for the future of the industry. This unique online platform offers a global audience a glimpse of a sustainable future fashion industry. An industry that ultimately gives the consumer pleasure whilst also giving the planet and its inhabitants absolute consideration.

The format of the Pop-Up display will offer the opportunity for the exhibition to travel, and to be set up in other partner institutions and organisations. Get in touch if you would like to tour the show.

Exhibits

The final design pieces use a strategic ‘TEN’ approach to create beautiful fashions for style fans to savour, with aesthetics connecting and responding to the scientific research of the MISTRA Future Fashion consortium. Each of the ten exhibits have applied TED’s ‘layered thinking’ approach and connect more than one of The TEN strategies in the design brief and outcome. For the showcase, we will demonstrate how each card ‘hand’ uses a ‘lead card’ or strategy along with other strategies to create a unique design brief for future fashion.

1 Seamsdress, by Dr Kate Goldsworthy
2 A.S.A.P (Paper Cloth), by Prof Kay Politowicz, Sandy MacLennan  (East Central), Dr Kate Goldsworthy, David Telfer (COS) and Dr Hjalmar Granberg (Innventia)
3 Shanghai Shirt by Prof. Becky Earley and Isabel Dodd
4 Inner/Outer Jacket by Clara Vuletich
5 DeNAture, by Miriam Ribul in collaboration with Hanna de la Motte (SP)
6 ReDressing Activism, by Prof. Becky Earley, Emmeline Child and Bridget Harvey
7 Smörgåsbord, by Melanie Bowles and Kathy Round
8 Sweaver, by Josefin Tissingh
9 Fast Refashion, by Prof. Becky Earley
10 A Jumper to Lend, A Jumper to Mend, by Bridget Harvey

Resources

The collaborations with scientists, academics and professionals, have lead to toolkits for action, instructions for making, resources for learning, and films to sit back and watch. International training tools and education models will be available from the site as a free download in the final report in June 2015.

Open Call

We are inviting a global audience of designers to visit the site, sign up and submit design projects for our Open Gallery space. We invite each submission to use the TED strategies, and to apply a layered approach of the strategies to describe the work. We will select the ten projects that will demonstrate the strongest links to the strategies – innovative systemic and material approaches for textile design that fuse different disciplines in one design proposal. We want the prototypes to provoke debate, and conversations to ripple out – leading to real change.

Review

We invite reviewers to our exhibition. Please contact tfrc@tfrc.org.uk to get in touch.

For more information

Please contact Angela Hartley, TFRC Manager, tfrc@tfrc.org.uk
To follow the project’s progress and send feedback use Twitter,
@textiletoolbox, Facebook group, or the project website.

www.textiletoolbox.com
www.mistrafuturefashion.com

The TEN animations are now live

TED animations 400

TED’s The TEN were co-developed by Professors Becky Earley and Kay Politowicz, and the team at TED between 2006 – 2010. They are sustainable strategies which aim to help designers reduce the environmental impact of textile design, production, use and disposal. They are not a check-list, but rather they are a framework for creative thinking and action. As ideas emerge, The TEN can be used to develop layers of strategic innovation – a chance to redesign and improve, or simply to communicate concepts and products more clearly.

The TEN emerged from a practice-based and collaborative approach over many years; and are perhaps best used when supporting teams in the design thinking process behind the creation of new prototypes which test potential solutions for a more sustainable industry. Recent action research projects have begun to evolve The TEN from prompts for small to medium size design companies into scalable concepts for design teams to adopt in large corporations in the UK, USA (VF Corporation) and Sweden (at H&M). This development enables the TED research team to constantly evolve and adapt The TEN – tailoring them to suit speeds, needs, contexts and circumstances.

In order to enable this action research in a more effective and timely manner – as is the wont in industry – the TEN have been made into a series of short animated films, to help participants grasp the essential considerations for textile and fashion designers to embrace in their day-to-day practice. The TED team have been writing scripts over the last year, Ana Diaz from SokFok Studio was the animator, and the project was funded by CLTAD, TFRC and Chelsea research. See our The TEN page to watch the animations and read more about each strategy.

Save The Date – TEXTILE TOOLBOX online exhibition

Textile Toolbox online exhibition 400

The TEXTILE TOOLBOX exhibition launches online on 13th November. It is a showcase of ten propositional design concepts inspired by Mistra research into the sustainability of the fashion and textile industry.

The exhibition platform functions as a research and public engagement 
tool formed around TED’s ‘The TEN’ – design strategies for innovative sustainability thinking and action. The exhibition proposes how these strategies can translate technical and scientific research breakthroughs into design concepts. The new products demonstrate the potential for progressing a sustainable fashion system with new materials, processes, applications and business models. The exhibits are a starting point for discussion – provocations, or ‘provotypes’ – showing us how design tools can create entirely new visions for the future of the industry. This unique online platform offers a global audience a glimpse of a sustainable future fashion industry. An industry that ultimately gives the consumer pleasure whilst also giving the planet and its inhabitants absolute consideration.

The final design pieces use a strategic ‘TEN’ approach to create beautiful fashions for style fans to savour, with aesthetics connecting and responding to the scientific research of the MISTRA Future Fashion consortium.

Exhibits:

  1. Seamsdress, by Dr Kate Goldsworthy
  2. A.S.A.P (Paper Cloth), by Prof Kay Politowicz, Sandy MacLennan (East Central), Dr Kate Goldsworthy, David Telfer (COS) and Dr Hjalmar Granberg (Innventia)
  3. Shanghai Shirt,by Prof Becky Earley and Isabel Dodd
  4. Inner/Outer Jacket, by Clara Vuletich
  5. DeNAture, by Miriam Ribul in collaboration with Hanna de la Motte (SP)
  6. ReDressing Activism, by Prof Becky Earley, Emmeline Child and Bridget Harvey
  7. Smörgåsbord, by Melanie Bowles and Kathy Round
  8. Sweaver, by Josefin Tissingh
  9. Fast Refashion, by Prof Becky Earley
  10. A Jumper to Lend, A Jumper to Mend, by Bridget Harvey

 

Resources:

The collaborations with scientists, academics and professionals, have lead to Tool Kits for action, instructions for making, resources for learning, and films to sit back and watch. International training tools and education models will be available from the site as a free download in the final report in June 2015.

 

Open Call:

We will also invite a global fashion design audience to submit their own sustainable future fashion projects to us, and selected works will be showcased in an open gallery on the site. We also invite reviewers to send us feedback on the exhibition and to contribute to our final project report. Get in touch for the opportunity to be part of this exciting process.

 

For more information:

Please contact Angela Hartley, TFRC Manager,  tfrc@tfrc.org.uk

To follow the project’s progress and send feedback use Twitter, @textiletoolbox, Facebook group, or the project website – www.textiletoolbox.com.

 

www.mistrafuturefashion.com

BA Textile Design Graduate Show 2014

This year’s Graduates from the BA Textile Design course at Chelsea College of Arts equally demonstrate modernity, professionalism and material exploration. The excellent output is linked to an awareness of sustainability and material impacts.

Dora Burns’ work explores co-design by working with people on her allotment. Dora explored five recipes for collaborative local pattern making, including found materials and resist prints with dyes grown and foraged. The stories and the process are documented on her blog. Through this process she wanted to explore how patterns can be used to capture a fleeting moment related to a place or to the personality of a person.

Another graduate, Mario Zhou, incorporated backpacks in garments. He said that the FLEX project, using ‘The TEN’ TED sustainable strategies in his second year, was significant in changing the approach to designing in their group.

The work this year is very focused on experiments with new materials and 3-dimensionality. Sports geometrics reflectives by Lucy Poulden featured next to day-glow features by Lucy Hardcastle whereas Ji Chen’s work explores his woven fabrics bonded onto neoprene structures.

The degree projects aim to engage us in different ways, and spatial installations feature equally next to fashion collections. Abby Bucknall created a space with orbs & lasered polyesters to re-engage our senses to truly understand and appreciate what textures feel like in reality in our increasingly digitised lives.

Seeing digital as material is a very interesting concept explored by Honami Nishii. Printing computer files as textile reliefs, she was inspired by how digital technology is influenced by our lives. In her graduate collection, data is a material with very special qualities: it is flexible, it can not age, and we can output it anytime. Using digital icons as print patterns, she imagined what materiality these intangible elements have.

Intangible elements become also visible in the fashion collection by Sabrina Shah Hakim. Titled ‘Controlled Chaos’, her material experimentation uses a water spray to demonstrate patterns that would be revealed on a raincoat.

These examples from the show and other inventive applications of both new and old material processes, demonstrate the graduating students’ awareness of the many contemporary contexts for textile design.

An overview of all projects from the degree show is available on the Chelsea Textile Design website.

The TEN cards are now available in Swedish and simplified / traditional Chinese

THE TEN cards are now available to buy from the TFRC shop in Swedish, traditional Chinese and simplified Chinese.

TED has translated THE TEN cards to Swedish for our MISTRA Future Fashion project 3 ‘Interconnected Design Thinking and Processes for Sustainable Textiles and Fashion’. The first sets of Swedish cards have been printed for the MISTRA Future Fashion researchers meeting at the Copenhagen Business School in November 2013.

For the field research with MISTRA Future Fashion in China, THE TEN cards have been translated to both traditional Chinese for our workshop in Hong Kong in January 2014, and to simplified Chinese for our field research in Shanghai. The recent Redress EcoChic Design Award 2013 winners have received their first sets of cards to co-create an up-cycled Hong Kong Shirt.

Our MISTRA Future Fashion project website Textiletoolbox will develop into an online exhibition later this year, and we will invite designers to use the cards to develop new prototypes.

Zero Waste Fashion & Textile Design

We are proud to present a lecture seminar and master class by four of the world’s leading zero waste fashion and textile design researchers at Chelsea College of Arts: Holly McQuillan, Massey University (New Zealand); Dr Timo Rissanen, Parsons The New School for Design (New York); Julian Roberts, Royal College of Art (London) and David Telfer, COS (London).

Holly McQuillan‘s work focuses on exploring the possibilities that arise when garment design is restrained by the goal of zero-waste. As a zero-waste pattern designer, educator and researcher she has developed methods and approaches to eliminate the production of waste from the production of clothing, while revealing exciting new detail, print layout, line and form.

Dr Timo Rissanen‘s creative practice is grounded in enquiry through pattern cutting. As a fashion designer and educator who has lived and worked internationally he is interested in global challenges with local perspectives, his research focuses on fashion and sustainability – particularly zero-waste fashion design – he sees fashion as integral to the everyday experience of living and creating a fashion system that enriches humanity as a task for us all.

Julian Roberts is a fashion designer, educator and inventor of  ‘Subtraction Cutting’ a garment pattern cutting method of hollowed construction, which can be used to make mens and womens fashion garments, accessories and interior/exterior products. Julian demostrates ‘Subtracting Cutting’ around the world – teaching a more organic approach to pattern making allowing the fabric to dictate the design.

David Telfer is a menswear designer with a focus on sustainable pattern cutting techniques including  zero-waste design, monomaterial detailing, minimal seam construction( a technique to reduce the number of seams used to construct a garment), and 1 piece construction (a method of tailoring one piece of fabric to the body).

Date: 28th March 2014

Time: 11:00 – 1300

Lecture Theatre, Chelsea College of Arts, Atterbury Street, London SW1P 4JU

Open in Google Maps

The seminar is highly recommended for all sustainable fashion and textile designers.

To book a FREE place go to UAL Events or email Angela Hartley

Material Journeys, Konstfack Elective, Stockholm 2014

The last week in February saw the start of the second Elective program run by TED at Konstfack University of the Arts, Crafts and Design in Stockholm. The Elective 2013-2014 is titled ‘Material Journeys‘ and will explore the objects we design as material life-cycles or stories. Workshops will be delivered on cyclability, creative writing and visualisation, using THE TEN to provoke sustainable thinking as part of an ‘interconnected design process’.. The Elective course is run by Guest Professors Dr Kate Goldsworthy with Professor Kay Politowicz between February and April 2014. Guest lecturers Miriam Ribul, from TED and Sandy MacLennan, from London based consultancy East Central Studios’ will join the team during the course.

The course is designed for students from across the disciplines including Textile, Industrial Design, Storytelling, Ceramics and Glass courses at Konstfack, each bringing their own individual approach to the materials agenda.

Last year’s Elective program was titled Manifesto for Creative Innovation and concluded in a Zine produced by the students and a final exhibition of work. Guest Professor Becky Earley ran a Black Hack workshop with the students during the Spring term 2013.

Redress magazine 2014

The magazine for the Redress Forum 2014 in Hong Kong this January is now available to read online. The magazine features the finalists for the EcoChic Design Award 2013 and the contribution from sustainability experts to the Forum, including the workshop led by TED researchers on day one. THE TEN are featured in the UK sustainable frontline guide on page 32.

Read the magazine here.

TED at Parsons The New School for Design, New York

This week TED researchers Professor Kay Politowicz and Dr Kate Goldsworthy are in New York working with Parsons The New School for Design in their brand new University Centre which opened this week on 5th Avenue.

They will be delivering a series of talks to students and staff during the week long visit, presenting the work of TED and TFRC researchers to faculty staff and invited industry guests as well as running a Zero Waste Plus workshop with fashion students studying under Timo Rissanen.

Rissanen’s work in ethical and sustainable fashion design is aimed at awakening industry to its systemic flaws. For his doctoral dissertation, he explored ways sustainable practices could be implemented in the industry and in the process coined the term ‘zero waste fashion design.’

The workshop will use an ‘interconnected design thinking’ exercise to incorporate strategies from THE TEN into the students Zero Waste design projects.