TFRC/ TED receives the Textile Institute Sustainability Award

Team Image_2016

The Textile Institute Sustainability Award is presented annually to a business or organisation that has had a demonstrable effect on sustainability policy and practice in textiles, clothing and footwear and in one or more of the following areas – sourcing, production, use, recycling and disposal. Previous winners include Lenzing AG, IG Cohen Ltd, Quantum Clothing Group Ltd and DBL Group.

We are thrilled to announce that TED has received the most recent award which will be presented at the the Textile Institute World Conference Awards Dinner in Poznan, Poland on Thursday the 28 April. PhD researcher Emmeline Child will receive the award on behalf of the TED team.

Zero Waste Fashion and Textile Design

Four world-leading Zero Waste designers held a seminar in the lecture theatre at Chelsea College of Art and Design on 28th of March. The day was introduced by TED Senior Research Fellow Dr Kate Goldsworthy, and was the first event where the designers Julian MacDonald, Timo Rissanen, Holly MacQuillan and David Telfer spoke together about their practice in Zero Waste pattern cutting. 115 participants were booked for the seminar in the morning, mostly coming from the fashion and textile courses at UAL.

The first speaker was Timo Rissanen presenting his PhD research. Timo’s first strong statement was that aesthetics are a vital consideration in zero waste pattern cutting: ‘It is easy to make an ugly zero-waste garment’. He demonstrated his zero waste work spanning over ten years to his most recent projects, including the 15% project with Salla Salin.  Although he claims some of his work might be complicated and complex, using more fabric to achieve a Zero Waste approach, he also debated what the meaning of simplicity is in fashion design. Some of his students at Parsons the New School of Design, where he leads the Zero Waste elective, have developed zero waste garments that are indistinguishable from traditional patterns such as a traditional white shirt and a parka. Finally he presented the collaborative project he started with Otto von Busch amongst others: ‘The Fashion Praxis Collective’. More information is available on Timo’s website.

The second speaker was Holly MacQuillan. Holly spoke about risk-taking, and all of her work reflects this approach. To her, Zero Waste ‘embraces uncertainty as a way of responding sensitively to both materials and instability of the environment’, and is ‘a step away from egocentric hierarchical design models’. She developed her TWINSET garments through a challenge to make a men’s simple hoodie and trousers from a zero waste pattern. Her project ‘Make Use’ developed in collaboration with Local Wisdom, and she published tutorials for Zero Waste garments online on

David Telfer brought a different perspective to the day, as he is talking from experience in industry, while the other practitioners come from teaching and academic research. The development of his degree project at the University of Brighton looked at speed of clothing manufacturing processes. His minimal seam garment project explored how to produce a garment in 30 minutes. David also presented his collaborations with TED that resulted from his Zero Waste garment in the Yield exhibition in 2011.  As for the other presenters, he introduced the presentation with his inspiration taken from history, where zero waste has approaches have been used. TED contacted him to develop work for the VF Futurewear exhibition in 2012, where he made a Zero Waste prototype garments for the North Face. He has worked on the FIREup funded Laser Line project with Dr Kate Goldsworthy and is currently working with the TED team members Professor Kay Politowicz and Dr Kate Goldsworthy on a new project for the online exhibition launching on our Textiletoolbox platform in October 2014.

The final speaker was Julian Roberts. All three previous speakers had quoted Julian as an inspiration, as he was the first one publishing his work online and so connecting to the other researchers across the globe. Timo and Holly discovered Julian’s work online while developing their own approach for Zero Waste pattern cutting. A film that showed extracts of his workshops, fashion shows, historical inspiration and other creative projects in film was the back-drop for Julian’s energetic presentation. Julian questions the role of the designer through research, video, websites and fashion. Using teaching and workshops to develop his approach and to promote ‘lateral thinking’ he says “the more you show a technique to an audience the more you simplify it.” Julian Roberts is a creative visionary who developed his own techniques working with body measurements rather than metrics through ‘lateral thinking’, and questions how education should evolve. As Holly, he embraces serendipity: “A lot of my best work is from happy mistakes”.

The seminar was followed by an invitation only workshop in Chelsea’s Green Room in the afternoon, where Holly MacQuillan demonstrated Zero Waste pattern cutting to a group of TED researchers and a few invited guests. Holly’s workshop introduced us to one of the main motivations behind her work: risk-taking. She has developed several approaches to Zero Waste pattern cutting depending on the fabric type and the pattern requirements. The slides presentation demonstrated expertise and ingeniousness in using pattern cuts for strategic garment outcomes. She then demonstrated her approach with a rectangular piece of cloth folded in two, where all she cut out was the neck, and the sleeve. On a mannequin, she showed how draping can develop several garment shapes form this simple starting point. She uses the cut out fabric for the collar, and a structural inset in the back of the fabric. All workshops partcipants developed their own garment in teams.

The Twitter feed of the event is available under #ZeroWaste.

The TEN cards are now available in Swedish and simplified / traditional Chinese

THE TEN cards are now available to buy from the TFRC shop in Swedish, traditional Chinese and simplified Chinese.

TED has translated THE TEN cards to Swedish for our MISTRA Future Fashion project 3 ‘Interconnected Design Thinking and Processes for Sustainable Textiles and Fashion’. The first sets of Swedish cards have been printed for the MISTRA Future Fashion researchers meeting at the Copenhagen Business School in November 2013.

For the field research with MISTRA Future Fashion in China, THE TEN cards have been translated to both traditional Chinese for our workshop in Hong Kong in January 2014, and to simplified Chinese for our field research in Shanghai. The recent Redress EcoChic Design Award 2013 winners have received their first sets of cards to co-create an up-cycled Hong Kong Shirt.

Our MISTRA Future Fashion project website Textiletoolbox will develop into an online exhibition later this year, and we will invite designers to use the cards to develop new prototypes.

FIREup Platform Launch

FIREup would like to invite you to celebrate the launch of its new online platform. This interactive space brings together designers and academics to share knowledge, inspire innovation and bring about collaborations. The platform is designed to help designers and fashion businesses in the UK access leading research based at the University of the Arts London and beyond. The collaborations initiated between these sectors is exactly where the future of the fashion industry can be realised.

The evening will mark a year of progress by showcasing current catalyst projects that have received FIREup funding since the initiative’s inception.

The showcase will take place at The Trampery in London Fields which is situated in the heart of Hackney’s fashion and creative community. The Trampery houses a community of fashion designers, technology and creative enterprises, and is close to London College of Fashion’s Mare Street site – the home of the Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE) and Designer–Manufacturer Innovation Centre (DISC). It’s the perfect place to bring together designers and academics to share knowledge, inspire innovation and bring about new collaborations.

Event Programme:

Friday 21st March 12.30pm – 7pm

The Trampery London Fields, 125 – 127 Mare Street, London E8 3RH


• Lunch served 12.30pm

• FIREup Introduction 1.30pm-1.45pm

• Session 1 1.45pm-2.20pm

No money or time for R&D? Can Collaborative Research help you and where to find the funding?

Presented by Sandy Black, FIREup PI

Followed by Q&A with Robert Keegan (AHRC), Jess Sully (CITKN), TSB representative, Rebecca Earley (FIREup Co-investigator UAL) and Adam Thorpe (FIREup Co-investigator, UAL)

• Session 2 2.30pm– 4pm

Three Round Table discussions:

1. Textile Collective: Developing an interdisciplinary London-based textile design collective

Experts: Kirsty McDougall (Hills McDougall), Prof Rebecca Earley (UAL), Val Furphy (Furphy Simpson Design) , Chaired by Alex McIntosh (FIREup Researcher)

2. Sustainable New Product Development, Innovation through new materials, technologies and processes

Experts: Simon Thorogood (UAL), Thomas Makryniotis (UAL), Jonathan Chippindale (Holition), Michelle Lowe Holder, Kate Goldsworthy (UAL)

Chaired by prof Sandy Black (FIREup Principal Investigator)

3. New Business Models: Innovation in Fashion Communication, Promotion and Digital Strategies

Experts: Nick Ryan (Worn Again), Not Just a Label, ShowStudio (tbc), Hywel Davies (UAL tbc)

Chaired by Adam Thorpe (FIREup Co-Investigator)

• Tea Break 4pm – 4.30pm

• FIREup Showcase 4.30pm – 5pm

• Drinks reception 5pm – 7pm

Please RSVP to Gabrielle Miller

Zero Waste Fashion & Textile Design

We are proud to present a lecture seminar and master class by four of the world’s leading zero waste fashion and textile design researchers at Chelsea College of Arts: Holly McQuillan, Massey University (New Zealand); Dr Timo Rissanen, Parsons The New School for Design (New York); Julian Roberts, Royal College of Art (London) and David Telfer, COS (London).

Holly McQuillan‘s work focuses on exploring the possibilities that arise when garment design is restrained by the goal of zero-waste. As a zero-waste pattern designer, educator and researcher she has developed methods and approaches to eliminate the production of waste from the production of clothing, while revealing exciting new detail, print layout, line and form.

Dr Timo Rissanen‘s creative practice is grounded in enquiry through pattern cutting. As a fashion designer and educator who has lived and worked internationally he is interested in global challenges with local perspectives, his research focuses on fashion and sustainability – particularly zero-waste fashion design – he sees fashion as integral to the everyday experience of living and creating a fashion system that enriches humanity as a task for us all.

Julian Roberts is a fashion designer, educator and inventor of  ‘Subtraction Cutting’ a garment pattern cutting method of hollowed construction, which can be used to make mens and womens fashion garments, accessories and interior/exterior products. Julian demostrates ‘Subtracting Cutting’ around the world – teaching a more organic approach to pattern making allowing the fabric to dictate the design.

David Telfer is a menswear designer with a focus on sustainable pattern cutting techniques including  zero-waste design, monomaterial detailing, minimal seam construction( a technique to reduce the number of seams used to construct a garment), and 1 piece construction (a method of tailoring one piece of fabric to the body).

Date: 28th March 2014

Time: 11:00 – 1300

Lecture Theatre, Chelsea College of Arts, Atterbury Street, London SW1P 4JU

Open in Google Maps

The seminar is highly recommended for all sustainable fashion and textile designers.

To book a FREE place go to UAL Events or email Angela Hartley

Research Degrees Open Evening

University of the Arts London (UAL) will host its open evening for prospective research degree applicants. Join us at London College of Fashion on the 14th of January 2013 from 6.00PM – 8.00PM.

You will have the opportunity to find out more about the degrees offered at UAL, ask questions and meet staff and students involved with the research degree programme across the six colleges. Existing Students will give presentations at 18.00 repeated at 19.00 regarding their experiences at UAL.

As a researcher under TFRC and TED across Central Saint Martins and Chelsea College of Arts, you will become a part of a wide community of practice-based and design-lead researchers from a centre operating within an institution with a strong historical and influential reputation of design practice and specialist teaching.

If you would like to attend the open evening and find out more please book your place by visiting the research degrees open evening events page.


Rootstein Hopkins Space, London College of Fashion, 20 John Princes Street, London W1G 0BJ

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TED Graphic Design Intern

A wonderful opportunity has arisen for a part-time 2 day a week graphic design intern to join our team for three months from September 2013.

We are looking to hire someone who can assist with graphic design communication to support the publications we are planning in the Autumn term and the TED website. Key requirements of the role would be graphic design skills, social media and blogging communication skills. Applicants would need to be able to use Photoshop, Indesign, Illustrator, and have good writing skills.

The deadline for applications has been extended to Wednesday 28 August 2013 5pm, interviews will take place in on Tuesday 3rd or Wednesday 4th of September 2013, the role would start soon after and be for 3 months. Apply for the position by e-mailing with a covering note, a copy of your CV, and completed Application Form. Please ensure you follow the application guidance notes.

To download the job specification please click here. For more information regarding the role contact

TFRC and TED Summer events 2013

For the end of the academic year TED and TFRC have organised a series of events to share and workshop the team’s achievements and to look at the future developments of each of the platforms.

The key focus of two events was on Well-being. During UAL’s Well-being week the TFRC Well-being platform shared the work with the research centre team. The event started with presentations from Dr Jenny Tillotson’s Scentsory Design research and her collague Kim Lahiri’s insights into aromachology, followed by BA Textile Design course director Anne Marr, Linda Florence and MISTRA/TED PhD candidate Clara Vuletich. The platform demonstrated how TFRC researchers succeed to improve health and well-being in various contexts with approaches ranging from social innovation, materials, science, architecture, textiles and technology. TED also hosted a team workshop wellbeing away day, where team members shared and developed current and future plans for a sustainable work-life balance, and skill-sharing demonstrations proved to be a success for a potential follow-up event.

Members and staff from TFRC and TED also visited the EN VIE- ALIVE exhibition at Espace Fondation EDF, curated by Carole Collet, Deputy Director of TFRC, and lead researcher of the TFRC Science and Technology platform. The team enjoyed a guided tour taken by Carole which focused on the 5 key contextual thematics of this emerging area of Design and Science, together exploring the TFRC Science and Technology platform and how this can be further implemented. The exhibition is on until 1st of September and we highly recommend a visit.

The academic year ended with the inspirational UAL Professorial Platform Lecture from Professor Kay Politowicz’s on 17th of July. Kay’s lecture on ‘Design Lifetimes: A Manifesto for Strategic Change’ truly demonstrated how the role of textile designers is changing, the TED team’s achievements in research, enterprise and teaching, and how THE TEN are and can be used to enable sustainable design thinking approaches. The publication from the platform event is now available on the Research Issuu account of the University of the Arts London.

A TED team workshop on the next day marked the half-way through the MISTRA Future Fashion phase 1 of the project, where we reviewed what has been completed as part of the Sustainable Strategy platform so far and how the team will go forward in the next stage. One of the key points was on the development of our online exhibition on Follow us to watch the seed grow. @TEDTextiles @Textiletoolbox

TFRC/TED PhD showcase event

Seven PhD students at the Textile Futures Research Centre will present their latest work on Tuesday 11th of June. Amongst them are four PhD candidates from TED, the sustainable strategy platform within TFRC: Clara Vuletich, Matilda Aspinall, Emmeline Child and Jennifer Ballie. All PhD candidates will also talk about their experience researching and studying for a PhD. A question & answer session will allow for questions from the audience after the presentations.

The event will be at the Lecture Theatre Room G05, University of the Arts London, 272 High Holborn, London WC1V 7EY, from 2-5pm. Registration is required via Eventbrite following this link. We look forward to seeing you there.


Film Vert night Film List

During Green Week at UAL, TED and TFRC hosted a Film Vert event in the lecture theatre at Millbank, screening inspiring film clips for sustainable design in fashion and textiles. Lucy Siegle introduced the event with a sneak-peek of her latest project, Green Cut, a film featuring eight seminal fashion designers paired with eight iconic British films to raise awareness of a sustainable approach to fashion design. She introduced each film category focusing on the TED’s TEN strategies for sustainable design, and was a great host as she prompted visitors to reflect on the style of the films, and to think about how the content is communicated. We would like to thank all who came to the Film Vert night and expressed the wish to further discuss sustainable film. As promised we are publishing the Film List of the night for download here below, and we will soon be in touch regarding the Vimeo platform for UAL students to upload their films focusing on sustainable Fashion and Textiles.

Film Vert_Film List_7 March 2013